Field Trip to Valley of a 1000 Hills

Views are breathtaking

Views are breathtaking

Helping out at Woza Moya (Hillcrest Aids Centre) has its benefits! Yesterday I was was able to go on a trip I have been really looking forward to, out into the Valley of a 1000 Hills, where the majority of Woza Moya beaders live. We’ve been working on a Christmas (yes, Christmas!) promotion and the purpose of the trip was to do video and photos for the promotion. We planned on visiting at least two of the bead ladies in their homes.

The day was drizzly, misty and quite cool, but with deadlines looming, we drove off into the hills. It’s difficult to describe the beauty of the area. It’s thousands of acres of spectacular rolling hills and deep valley, dotted with what can only be called rudimentary homesteads, made up of cinder block houses, rondavels and lean to’s. The road is mostly driveable, but Paula’s little car had some rough dirt roads and steep hills to contend with. And with four of us in the car, there were times when I thought we may have to get out and push!

Small congregations of “tuck shops” (containers turned into small stores) and the ubiquitous taxis dotted the roads which were overrun with chickens, goats and dogs, all which seem to have the right of way.

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Our initial directions took us off to a false start but fortunately we had two Zulu speakers who simply called out the window for directions. When we got back on the right track, we wound around hills and up and down as the road got narrower. It was hard to watch the road as the scenery around us was so spectacular, despite the mist and low-lying clouds.

When we arrived at Princess’s house, we were greeted by the whole family plus more. The Gogos (grannys) were all there, dressed in their Sunday best, and numerous kids of various ages roared around. All should be in school, but the school is closed, of course! We were graciously invited in to set up in Princess’s room.

It was interesting how the “compound” was set up; it looked like each family having its own structure, which was a large rondavel (round building) with everything in it - sort of like a large studio apartment, for instance. Except there was one kitchen structure for everyone. With no running water, we saw the green JoJo water tanks at intervals along the road, which supply the locals. And of course, no plumbing, so every homestead had a pit toilet.

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As we scouted the area and decided on what shots and where, the kids kept up a very active soccer game on a flat area nearby. Not a single cell phone amongst them. A couple of dogs wandered in, as well as couple of cats and several goats checked things out.

It was interesting dialing back expectations of “getting it done” quickly. We definitely were working on Africa time. Qin, Woza Moya’s young media guy set up the shoots, getting it done just before the rain arrived, although the rain was very light and we were able to complete other parts of his set up. As I wasn’t in charge, I was able to spend time taking photos and simply enjoying being out there.

The compound is also home to a selection of goats, one with two tiny kids, that we didn’t even know were there until they started bleating and mama goat came running! Also chickens in a pen which was surprising and mostly the chickens are very free ranging! The vegetable garden looks really good, too, with cabbages and various fruit trees like papaya and mangoes. And some very healthy, lush plants which some might consider illegal!

Paula hard at work

Paula hard at work

Paula spent a lot of her time perched on the bank, remotely dealing with crises at the office! Sometime having access from anywhere is wonderful, but on the other hand, you can never get away!

As we were finishing up, we were invited once again into Princess’s home and to our surprise, were served lunch! This is a severely depressed area where money and food are in extremely short supply. Of course, we accepted this gift but I also felt like we were taking food out of their mouths. Each plate was carefully filled with a piece of fried chicken, baked beans and pap, a staple dish made from maize. Food has never tasted better.

By the time we left, the weather was looking even more iffy, but we needed to get at least one more beader sorted out. Once again, the gps wasn’t talking to us nicely, and we stopped to ask a young man where we could find our Gogo beader. “I know where,” he said. “I’ll come with you!” In he hopped and off we went.

Everyone knows everyone and sure enough, he took us right to our destination and we discovered he was our gogo’s son’s best friend!

Amazing dexterity

Amazing dexterity

While Qin did the shoot, Paula and I talked to Sbonelo, the son. He is the sort of young person we need to hear more of. His mother raised him on her own, funding their life solely through her bead making. He went all the way through school and became a licensed tour guide, a profession now that has really been hit by Covid-19. But he is so upbeat and positive, full of ideas to develop tours into the Valley. But to fund his dreams, he builds very creative packing crate furniture, makes candles and does whatever he can to keep going. He has some really good ideas that I think Paula (and maybe me) will investigate and tie into the Centre in some way.

There is so much negativity in the country that talking to this young man really puts a much more positive spin on things and I wish more people were able to experience and enjoy interacting with people like him. The whole day was such a great experience and it would be wonderful for more people to experience the people like we did.

As it is now, when I say I went into the Valley of 1000 Hills, the first reaction is horror and the words “Aren’t you afraid?” Which is so sad. Of course I don’t go on my own into risky areas, but I believe if you go into an experience expecting only the best, that’s what you’ll get. Some think me naive, but I’m not stupid and understand but this has been the way I have always lived my life.

And will continue to do so.