It’s been almost a month since I got back to South Africa.
The first week was what I would call an NRV week – No Redeeming Value! The flight here from California was long and arduous, despite having a layover in Abu Dhabi. It took me a long time to adjust to the 9-hour time difference and I was lucky to be able to just veg at my brother’s home during that time.
People are asking what my take is on the country, coming back with an undetermined departure date. My mission is to decide whether I am able to adjust to the country I was born in, lived in until I was 18, made numerous returns/visits of various lengths to over the ensuing years, and now am looking at making my permanent home again.
Of course, I’ve heard all the warnings about how dangerous the country is and the economic turmoil etc., etc. But I’ve also learned over the years that the negativity about the country (any country) is directly fed by the news media. Bad and scary stuff sells.
So I am determined to look beyond that and see what is really happening here. Not an easy task.
My first take is that not a lot has changed. Yes, the infrastructure is going downhill and there is huge corruption within the government, which may or may not be rooted out by the current administration. Trying to eliminate something from the government culture that is so deeply rooted in corruption is a monumental task.
When I look beyond the government to the people, I experience a very friendly, open population. I have yet to have a bad experience, feel threatened or afraid. Although I must admit I avoid areas that are known to be a bit iffy.
However, there are definitely drawbacks.
I do find the security issues a bit trying. For instance, my brother’s house has a full security system installed; every window has burglar guards and the main doors all have metal expanding gates that are kept locked. The property is fully fenced with the surrounding fence topped with razor wire.
At a paint store in Pietermaritzburg
When we leave, first the doors and metal security doors are locked; once in the car, the electric gate is opened, the alarm set, you drive out and close the gate. Then returning, do everything in reverse. At night, the full system is turned on, with laser beams that cross behind any vehicles not garaged.
I’m always very aware of which buttons I press as I don’t want to set off the alarm by mistake and have the piercing sirens go off!
And there is the lack of “freedom” here. I am so used to being able to do what I want, when I want, regardless of where I am. But that isn’t possible here. For instance, I can’t just go for a walk from the house. I would need to have someone go with me – strength in numbers sort of thing. I don’t drive at night (I don’t like doing that anyway). Car windows and doors are always locked and never leave valuables visible. Leave space in front of the car when you come to a stop sign or robot (signal), so you can get out of a “situation” i.e. carjacking. I don’t have to worry about the next rule: don’t wear flashy jewelry as I don’t have any! But I am cautious with my new iPhone!
Admittedly, this is in KwaZulu Natal, which has more serious problems. It will be interesting to see what it’s like in the Cape when I go to see my other brother next month.
Cost of Living
One of the main reasons I am looking at making South Africa my home again is the cost of living – the exchange rate is very much in my favor. It’s currently right around R15 to $1, which makes it a viable place, financially, for me to live.
For instance, in this area you can buy a decent house for $100,000 or so. Obviously, there are a lot of upscale places where houses are significantly more. And I know the Cape is more expensive. There are mega million place in Cape Town.
Rentals are doable. I am going to be renting a “granny flat” in Westville, a nice suburb about 10 minutes from Durban, for just over $400 a month. It is completely furnished, right down to the silverware and includes all utilities, high speed internet, use of the pool and maid service once a week.
Cars and gas are the same price as in the States, so that is a hurdle I am working on overcoming. But food, generally (except imported goods) is about half what I was paying in California. Eating out is definitely not as hard on the pocketbook. For instance, yesterday we went out for coffee – two cappuccinos and a latte set me back about $5 – not for one, for all!
Staying connected is the same price as the States. I buy pre-paid and get 5GB for $35 but a lot of the service is marginal, and I only get 3G in lot of places. I didn’t know they still did 3G! And electronics, which are all imported, are twice the price as the US. I am SO glad I got my new iPhone 11Pro Max before I left California
Racism is Alive
I do find that racism is rife here. There is no point in arguing my much more liberal way of thinking. But I understand, I think, where this is coming from. It’s pretty much hardwired into a lot of people my age (raised in apartheid). I have to admit that that ugly head does still rear up in my life, but I understand why and try to overcome it.
And I think a lot of it is frustration at seeing a once-fully-functioning country on what looks like a path to self-destruction.
I try understand where they are coming from, and I can see how all that negativity and way of thinking can take over a life and blind you to the good stuff that is happening. It’s easy to fall into that trap - I did in Washington.
I am trying to stay neutral and observe and understand what is going on. I know there is a lot of good happening and I want to tap into that, and not be dragged down by the negativity and avoid the news. It’s not easy.
But Then…..
But then…there are the smells of Africa that don’t change. There are the lightning storms and torrential rains that scents the air and then are gone in a flash, with just the steam rising from the warm earth. It’s the sound of the frogs at night, serenading me to sleep; and the warm, wet grass in the early morning that I tiptoe through to get my first cup of coffee. It’s the weaver birds chattering, as they build their nests in the thorn trees, only to have to start from scratch after a big wind tears the nests off the limbs and tosses them to the ground.
And I feel like the weaver birds sometimes – my nest has been destroyed so many times, and now I am checking out the next “tree” to build a new nest that won’t be thrown to the ground in the next storm.