It’s coming up on 4 months that I have been here in South Africa and am no closer to making a decision about staying or going. Every day, I think about the pros and cons and weigh then against each other. And as my days change, so do the options.
It was good to meet up with Suzy, a friend from school and who lives in Italy but is going through the same sort of conundrum as me, wondering whether or not to make the move here. Obviously, there are a lot of differences in our circumstances, but the overarching problems of finances, housing, medical coverage and transportation are very similar.
And she is struggling with the same issues about security and freedom and our pretty much different points of view from the majority of our friends and family who live here. So it was good to hear someone else has the same concerns as I do.
But as I had said in a previous post, I am planning to do an “adventure” every week, whether I do it on my own or find someone to go out to play with. There are so many things to experience that are relatively close, so I can be a local tourist.
Adventure #1
Rosemary, my tour guide
Last week, I went on the Markets of Warwick Tour, something I have wanted to do for ages. It’s not a place I would feel comfortable going on my own so booked the tour through the local non-profit that trains the market traders as guides. I was lucky to be able to go with Rosemary who, with her sister, have a stand that sells herbs and potions to the local population. She isn’t a sangoma but certainly knows the plants.
It was a really interesting and as I was the only one on the tour, Rosemary took me to places that the regular tour doesn’t normally go, and it was fascinating. And so colorful.
The markets are under the bridges that make up the freeways at the entrance to Durban. Some of the stalls are very makeshift and others actually have power and water. And some pay for their spaces which are supposed to have power and water but after several years, are still without.
The tour started in Victoria Street Market which I remember from a long time ago when it was predominantly Indian and all that was sold there were spices. It still smells the same, the wonderful aromas immediately enveloping you in exotic scents. I was looking for spices to make Chai tea and Rosemary very carefully suggested that I don’t buy from the lady I talked to first!
Street vendor
Then it was out onto the street and the masses of people who go through or work at the market every day! Taxis lined the streets, and street vendors selling everything from mielies (corn) on the cob being roasted over an open fire, to clothes to – get this – enemas! Apparently in the culture, this is a remedy used often for just about everything that ails you! And these are not your hygienic devices found in a pharmacy! Gallon jugs hung from a stand that have a long plastic hose attached. Yikes!
We walked through the opepho and lime market first. Opepho is a local herb that is burned like incense and apparently helps you see your ancestors. Piles of the dried herb were bundles for sale in this area. The lime is formed into round balls and allowed to dry. And it is used for painting houses, but also used by the women training as sangomas or traditional healers. They have to cover their arms and faces with the white clay. And the brownish orange clay is used as a sunscreen.
Where the women work and live for two weeks at a time
This is all done by the women who live in this area. It’s difficult to describe the conditions they live in, under the freeways. They live there for 2 weeks at a time, with makeshift beds they keep covered to keep off the rain. There is no electricity and no water and toilets are a long walk away. After 2 weeks, they pack up what they haven’t sold and go home, to be replaced by another woman from the family.
I picked up one of the lime balls and it must weigh at least 15 pounds and these women fill a sack with 6 or more and carry them home – balanced on their heads.
And we think we have it hard!
In a different part of the market, there are racks and racks of women’s dresses, skirts, aprons all made from the local fabric. Basically three styles predominate. Sleeveless if you are single, short sleeves if you’re married. And if you are a gogo or grandmother it’s longer sleeves with frills and longer skirt also frilled along the bottom.
These are worn a lot by the women who work as domestics and are so much more attractive than the old uniforms they used to wear!
The herb market was amazing, but It’s not permitted to take photos there. Why you ask? Well, a lot of the plants used in traditional medicine are endangered and it’s illegal to harvest or have them. And it’s not just plants here but all sorts of dead creatures which I did not want to know about. Piles upon piles of stuff; boxes of wood chips and mixtures of various plants and unknown additives. Racks of dried fish and frogs and birds wings still bloody from the killing. One of the guys there who was pulverising herbs and ‘stuff’ in a metal tin had me take a turn. The metal rod was about 6’ tall and maybe 1 ½ diameter and very heavy. I lifted and pounded the stuff in the tin for a minute! Hard work but that was a sound that rang out throughout the market as the traders prepared their wares.
There were areas that sold a lot of Chinese junk where your ears were assaulted by blasting music coming from where, I have no idea!
Bovine head market where I became a vegetarian
And then there was the bovine head market which almost convinced me to be vegetarian! It’s a traditional market and the heads of the cattle are butchered and boiled and prepared there. Again, no power or water (also promised) so the big pots are over open flames in 55-gallon drums.
Years ago, when I was a child, Mum would come down to these markets to buy vegetables and meat. Obviously, it was a lot smaller and was mostly vegetables brought in from the smallholdings around Durban. But I remember coming there and while we were walking around, I tried to place the memories I had. Across the road from the bovine market stands a building now called the English Market which rang a bell. Not the name but the look of the place. I could almost see going into it as a child, but it wasn’t until we went out the side door and I turned back and went, “This is it. This the butcher shop.” And although it is now a barber shop (I think) it is still tiled in beautiful white tile, all the way to the ceiling.
We actually made it through all the markets (except the bead market which is only open on Fridays) and ended up back at Victoria Street Market where I bought the spices I need!
But the adventure wasn’t over as I met up with Suzy for lunch on the beachfront and we chatted and swapped notes on what we are experiencing in the wild world.
Adventure #2
Lions River Craft Brewery
I had said I was only doing an adventure a week so technically, this part is “next week.”
My ex sister-in-law Evie and I have stayed friends and I have been looking forward to coming up to Howick to spend the weekend with her at Stockland Farm. Many years ago, I B&B sat for her, when the place was still operating as a Bed and Breakfast.
It’s a lovely old place with lots of history (Evie is a history buff). And even though it’s not operating any more, the place is really put together.
I got here on Friday mid-afternoon and we made plans to do some “Meandering” over the weekend. The Midlands Meander is a well-known tourist route through this area, incorporating literally hundreds of artists, craft stores, restaurants and venues that are generally open on weekends.
We started the Saturday with a trip to Karkloof Farmers Market, a small, very rural-feeling market in a spectacular setting. I had some of the best samosas I have ever had!
Then we were on a mission. Evie and her friend Barb had heard of a brewer recently opened but there was a lot of confusion about where it was! But we set off to find it.
After a few missed roads and a couple of U-turns, Lucy (my google maps lady) got us on the right roads and we headed out into the country on well-maintained dirt roads. Evie and Roland, who have lived in the area for 20 years, ended up on roads they had never been on before. Lucy was dead on and we found our way to Lion’s River Craft Brewery.
Evie enjoying a brew
What a find, out in the country. A herd of cattle grazed across the fence as we found our way into the brewery. Constructed of corrugated iron, it backed up onto open fields. None of us are big beer drinkers, but we ended up with a flight of 6 of their beers. And these were not just tasters; these were full 12 oz glasses! Add a wonderful platter of fresh, home-made bread and a selection of local cheeses and meats and it was lunch.
Our next stop for after lunch coffee was The Platform, a converted railway siding with a very exclusive (expensive) art gallery and coffee shop that serves coffee laced with pot, if requested! Which we all declined – I thought it would taint the flavour of the coffee. Next time, I’ll try it.
So this is the start of my African Adventures here in KwaZulu Natal. I haven’t planned anything for next week, but tomorrow we are going to another brewery/distillery for a gin tasting, something else right up my alley.
